Choosing
the Right Paint Brush
Therese Bahl, IGMA Fellow
There
is such a huge selection of brushes available in most art supply
and craft stores, that makes it most difficult to always select
the right brush for the job. Just to know the names of the various
brushes and their application is the first part of choosing the
correct .brush. Also the names of the components making up a brush
are important to know. I hope to help you select the proper brush
for the job and make your project easier and more professional.
My
personal choices are:
For
fine detail work:
"Raphael Martre Kolinsky sable" France. I use size 3/0 for most of
my work.This is a pointed sable bush. I obtain these from "Jerry's Catalogue".
(1-800-U-ARTIST) It is number 8404 with a retail price of $14.00 but sold by
Jerry's at around $6.80. I consider this the "Cadillac" of brushes
for fine detailing.
Flat
brushes:
For basecoating and general painting. I prefer Langnickel #700 Royal
Knight size 4, Langnickel #760 Wedge size 10 and Langnickel #750 Wedge
size 8. These are all short-handle brushes and I use them for both Acrylic
and Oil paints. Any comparable brush by Grumbacher, Liquitex, etc is
acceptable. Don't try to save money on a brush. I always tell my students "You
can't do good work without a good brush". Buy the best brush you
can and then take care of it!
Look for more information regarding care of brushes later on the Guild Forum.
This
Week's Q & A:
Answers provided by Therese Bahl
Q. How wide should the molding be?
A. There is no strict rule about the width of frames. It depends
on personal preference, the subject of the painting and the era of
the painting. I have often used a rather wide frame on a small painting
and a medium frame on a large landscape. I would not use a frame larger
than 1ΕΎ2 inch on a miniature painting. This would be equivalent to
6 inches. It depends on the effect you want to achieve. Hold different
sizes of molding around your completed painting and see what looks
best.
Q. What's the best type of wood to use and where can I get it?
A. Roger Gutheil, IGMA Fellow, makes and sells a variety of
moldings in cherry wood. Beautifully detailed and at reasonable cost.
His address is: 510 English Road, Rochester, NY. 14616-2014 Phone 716-663-4326
S.H.Good & Son offers a variety of woods ranging from Oak to Ebony
Address: 8830 San Gabriel Road, Atascadero, CA 93422
Phone 805-460-9663
Q. What's the best type of finish for the frame? Stain? Gold? Gold Spray?
Gold Leaf?
A. The finish of the frame depends on the subject matter of the painting.
I would not use gold spray. (I'm not one to use sprays of any kind) Use either
gold leaf or an easy alternative for gold leaf is Krylon 18 kt. Gold Leaf Pen.
I purchase them in the paint department of Home Depot. They do a good-looking
job and are much easier to use. Follow the directions carefully and you will
be pleased with the results. Most frames are either wood tone (stained), gold
or painted black. Sometimes they are a combination of two finishes.
Q. Finishing the back of the frame?
A. Your Bristol Board is fine as long as it is not so thick
that it would destroy the scale. I often paint on Aircraft Birch Plywood,
available at miniature shops and craft stores. This then becomes the
back as well and you need only a dust cover to seal your work. Your
wire sounds OK but a more traditional way of finishing your work would
be to glue a thread to each side of the frame about 1/3 down from the
top. Leave a little slack in the thread. I use thread in a natural
color. Then cut paper a tiny bit smaller than the frame. For paper
I often use pieces of good quality writing paper or paper bags from
gift shops rather than paper bags from the grocery store. Keep an eye
out for paper that is not to flimsy and of good quality. Cut tiny horizontal
slits in the paper where the thread is attached to the frame. Place
the paper over the frame to check fit. Then run a very thin ribbon
of glue. (I use Aileen's Thin Tacky for almost everything) Slide the
paper under the thread. Attach the paper backing. Slightly dampen the
edges of the paper with water. Do not rub hard or you will tear the
paper. Let dry. You will now have a completed frame with a professional
appearance, both front and back. Good luck!
Q. For assembled Frames:
A. Debbie's Designs (Debbie Salterelli)
BC Box 842 Cable, WI. 5421, Phone: 717-798-4433
Fine quality, highly detailed and worth the money. Made of excellent quality
resin and are available in many styles and sizes. They come finished or unfinished.Her
brochure lists complete dimensions inside and outside of frames.
Buy the best quality you can. Your frame is an important component to your
painting and will make a complete presentation.
Note: June 2002, the current issue of Dollhouse Miniatures has an article
on page 38 of Therese's finishing techniques. You might find this most helpful.