Vol.1 No.5
3 April 2002


Choosing the Right Paint Brush

Therese Bahl, IGMA Fellow

There is such a huge selection of brushes available in most art supply and craft stores, that makes it most difficult to always select the right brush for the job. Just to know the names of the various brushes and their application is the first part of choosing the correct .brush. Also the names of the components making up a brush are important to know. I hope to help you select the proper brush for the job and make your project easier and more professional.

My personal choices are:

For fine detail work:
"Raphael Martre Kolinsky sable" France. I use size 3/0 for most of my work.This is a pointed sable bush. I obtain these from "Jerry's Catalogue". (1-800-U-ARTIST) It is number 8404 with a retail price of $14.00 but sold by Jerry's at around $6.80. I consider this the "Cadillac" of brushes for fine detailing.

Flat brushes:
For basecoating and general painting. I prefer Langnickel #700 Royal Knight size 4, Langnickel #760 Wedge size 10 and Langnickel #750 Wedge size 8. These are all short-handle brushes and I use them for both Acrylic and Oil paints. Any comparable brush by Grumbacher, Liquitex, etc is acceptable. Don't try to save money on a brush. I always tell my students "You can't do good work without a good brush". Buy the best brush you can and then take care of it!

Look for more information regarding care of brushes later on the Guild Forum.

Ask your question now!

Email the forum at forum@igma.org


Coming in the
Next Issue
...

  • Marquetry & Parquetry

Previous Issues

 

 

 

 

 

This Week's Q & A:
Answers provided by Therese Bahl


Q. How wide should the molding be?


A. There is no strict rule about the width of frames. It depends on personal preference, the subject of the painting and the era of the painting. I have often used a rather wide frame on a small painting and a medium frame on a large landscape. I would not use a frame larger than 1ž2 inch on a miniature painting. This would be equivalent to 6 inches. It depends on the effect you want to achieve. Hold different sizes of molding around your completed painting and see what looks best.



Q. What's the best type of wood to use and where can I get it?


A. Roger Gutheil, IGMA Fellow, makes and sells a variety of moldings in cherry wood. Beautifully detailed and at reasonable cost. His address is: 510 English Road, Rochester, NY. 14616-2014 Phone 716-663-4326
S.H.Good & Son offers a variety of woods ranging from Oak to Ebony
Address: 8830 San Gabriel Road, Atascadero, CA 93422
Phone 805-460-9663



Q. What's the best type of finish for the frame? Stain? Gold? Gold Spray? Gold Leaf?

A. The finish of the frame depends on the subject matter of the painting. I would not use gold spray. (I'm not one to use sprays of any kind) Use either gold leaf or an easy alternative for gold leaf is Krylon 18 kt. Gold Leaf Pen. I purchase them in the paint department of Home Depot. They do a good-looking job and are much easier to use. Follow the directions carefully and you will be pleased with the results. Most frames are either wood tone (stained), gold or painted black. Sometimes they are a combination of two finishes.



Q. Finishing the back of the frame?


A. Your Bristol Board is fine as long as it is not so thick that it would destroy the scale. I often paint on Aircraft Birch Plywood, available at miniature shops and craft stores. This then becomes the back as well and you need only a dust cover to seal your work. Your wire sounds OK but a more traditional way of finishing your work would be to glue a thread to each side of the frame about 1/3 down from the top. Leave a little slack in the thread. I use thread in a natural color. Then cut paper a tiny bit smaller than the frame. For paper I often use pieces of good quality writing paper or paper bags from gift shops rather than paper bags from the grocery store. Keep an eye out for paper that is not to flimsy and of good quality. Cut tiny horizontal slits in the paper where the thread is attached to the frame. Place the paper over the frame to check fit. Then run a very thin ribbon of glue. (I use Aileen's Thin Tacky for almost everything) Slide the paper under the thread. Attach the paper backing. Slightly dampen the edges of the paper with water. Do not rub hard or you will tear the paper. Let dry. You will now have a completed frame with a professional appearance, both front and back. Good luck!



Q. For assembled Frames:

A. Debbie's Designs (Debbie Salterelli)
BC Box 842 Cable, WI. 5421, Phone: 717-798-4433
Fine quality, highly detailed and worth the money. Made of excellent quality resin and are available in many styles and sizes. They come finished or unfinished.Her brochure lists complete dimensions inside and outside of frames.


Buy the best quality you can. Your frame is an important component to your painting and will make a complete presentation.


Note: June 2002, the current issue of Dollhouse Miniatures has an article on page 38 of Therese's finishing techniques. You might find this most helpful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

menu 1
menu 2
menu 3
menu 4
menu 5
menu 6
menu 7