Vol.1 No.3
13 March 2002

Furniture Finishing 101

Julian Biggers

Furniture finishing techniques are as unique as the many woodworkers. Each has individual procedures for finishing that they have found best for them. In other words, there is no one best way to finish furniture. The following is a general guide that can produce good results.
Materials mentioned are available at hardware and paint stores.

Preparation: Sand the piece down to the finest grit of sandpaper practical. I like to use the silicon carbide wet/dry paper (320 and 400 grit) more than the common wood sandpaper. It lasts much longer and the grits are finer. Always sand with the grain of the wood, otherwise you may find embarrassing "scratches" crossgrain when you stain.

Stain: Follow the manufacturer's directions for applying the stain. Here, the issue is the choice of stain. Some like Minwax stain, others Zar stain, and so forth. Stains differ in color (regardless of the name), by texture, and ease of use. You just have to find the brand that you like. Try the stain on a scrape of wood before using it on your piece. Some brands have come out with a water-based stain. I do not recommend them for miniatures because (1) they tend to raise the wood grain requiring re-sanding for a smooth finish, and (2) the stain may warp very thin woods.

Sealing/Finishing: I like to use a diluted shellac rather than a varnish for this step, mainly because it is fast-drying (no dust pickup) and I can control the build-up of the finish. Use one part shellac from the can and two parts denatured alcohol I.e. five drops shellac to ten drops of alcohol. Give the piece two coats of the mixture allowing to dry between coats, then rub lightly with "OOOO" steel wool. Wipe the piece with a "tack rag" to remove dust. Repeat the procedure until you have a surface you like. Please do not spray the piece with Deft straight from the can unless you just like "instant Taiwan."

Waxing: Use a good grade of paste wax such as Minwax, Johnson, etc. Even Kiwi neutral shoe polish is a good wax. Do not use any of the spray wax products. Buff the piece with soft lint-free cloth. Repeat applications of wax until the desired finish is obtained. Set aside several days and check the piece. Wax oils may be absorbed into the wood and another waxing needed. A good wax finish should last one-two years with only an occasional buffing to bring back the luster. Treat the piece as you would any fine piece of furniture.

Personal Opinion: Too many furniture miniatures are ruined by a "non-scale" finish. Either the finish is too thick or too shiny. A semi-gloss finish is about right to fit in most settings.

A Note on Shellac.
Shellac is a natural resin soluble in alcohol that has been used since ancient Egypt. It is readily available in two types: orange, and white(or blond). The latter is shellac that has been bleached and wax removed. Either will work well on miniatures when diluted. Shellac has a limited shelf life. After six months, test the shellac for drying ability. Old shellac does not dry and you end up with a sticky mess.

The subject of Julian Biggers class at the Guild School this year, a Federal/Regency Teapoy

© 2002 Julian Biggers, courtesy IGMA Forum